Training your dog is a huge part of your interaction with him/her for the first few months and through out their lifetime. This includes housetraining, leash training, obedience training, socialization, and problem solving. In addition to providing your dog with needed skills, this time will also be a great opportunity for you to bond with him. Take the time to really get to know your pet while training him and a loving relationship will easily develop.
  • 01 Mar 2017 6:51 AM | Anonymous

    In a perfect world your puppy’s socialization started in his first months of life but even if your pup is six months old it’s never too late to socialize, and the process continues his whole life. Think of all the situations and environments that your puppy will need to be comfortable in: riding in the car, meeting strangers, having contact with the children next door (and children in general), walking along the street, tolerating large trucks and cars, large animals such as horses, vacuum cleaners, and washing machines – to name just a few.

    It’s essential that your puppy be completely comfortable being with people and children. So introduce them to all sorts of different people. Let the pup meet people of all descriptions: bearded, thin, overweight, tall, wearing hats, glasses, loud shoes, carrying bags, pushing bicycles, wheelchairs, crutches.. You get the idea right?  

    Puppies learn to interact with other dogs correctly. Like all young animals, pups love to play, and games play a vital part in a dog’s development. Dogs develop their canine communication skills through playing with other dogs as puppies.

    Through playing, dogs learn the behavior of not biting. When puppies play physical games, they soon learn that a litter mate or adult dog will not tolerate sharp teeth pulling on ears or necks. If a puppy "bites" another dog too hard, he will get a quick reprimand, with the other dog stopping the game for a brief moment. A puppy soon learns to limit the strength of his "bites," and will stop biting too hard when he’s playing with other dogs.

    You and your family should continue teaching your puppy not to bite. Whenever your puppy uses his teeth on your skin, you should respond with a sharp yelp of pain (even if it doesn’t hurt), as this will teach your puppy to learn that touching human skin with his teeth is not allowed, no matter how gentle he is.

    Bullmastiff puppies can be independent minded (most are) and they need a strong leader - YOU.  This by no means is to imply being heavy handed nor hardhearted.  It is not unusual for the owner of a Bullmastiff to seek assistance from more those more experience in the breed.  If you do not know other more experienced folks in your area and would like to connect email our club at  Our club members are located throughout the Pacific Northwest in Washington, Oregon, Idaho and California perhaps near you.  

  • 03 Jan 2016 4:27 PM | Anonymous

    Long before you pull out the tracking flags, dust off the utility articles or decide that your dog needs to learn how to use his nose, he's busy using his nose to explore his world. The sense of smell is functional at birth, and from the moment he's born, your dog lives in a world rich with scents. All you need to do is teach the dog specifically how you want him to use his astonishing olfactory powers. The easiest way to accomplish this is through games. 

    The Scent Work Games presented below are suitable for any breed at any age from 6 weeks on, but we recommend strongly that these games be a regular part of your puppy's development. All of these games stress reliance on his nose, not his eyesight. 

    To avoid confusing your dog, we recommend you choose one word which indicates food or dog toys (we use "SEEK"), and a completely different word for objects with human scent or people themselves (we use "FIND IT"). In this fashion, the dog is always clear about WHAT he's looking for with his nose and will not confuse food scents with human scent. One of the most common problems with using food to teach scent discrimination or tracking is that you must ultimately teach the dog that the food is not what you really meant at all!

    WHICH HAND? This is the simplest of all games. With food or a toy in only one hand, present both closed hands to the dog. Ask him, "Which one?" You may improve upon this game by insisting he touch with a paw or scratch lightly at the correct hand before receiving his treat, or simply have his nose bump your hand. If he gets it wrong, show him the correct hand but DO NOT give the treat! Just try again. Add lots of dramatic flair to this - dogs love a good show.

    LIGHTS OUT This one is great fun for the dog. Show your dog a treat (preferably crunchy) or his favorite toy, and then place it out of his sight but easily accessible in a dark room. Tell him to SEEK - follow him in to listen for his success which you will praise enthusiastically. Obviously, the rewards for the dog are multiple - he gets a treat or finds his toy plus a very happy handler. If using a toy, be sure to reward his find with some play before starting again.

    When multiple treats or toys are used, this particular game helps to build persistence and trust in the handler. The dog may initially find only 2 out of 3 treats, but he quickly discovers that persistence in searching when you give the SEEK command pays off. He learns to believe you - there really is another one there!

    You can increase the difficulty of LIGHTS OUT by hiding the cookies in less accessible places (like in a shoe, or placed on a low shelf.) This can be practiced outdoors as well as in your car, or a parking lot or anywhere else!

    HIDE & SEEK This is a doggy favorite best played at night or in a darkened house initially. Partially open closets are great (closed closets may not allow sufficient scent to escape), as are shower stalls/tubs with the curtain drawn, standing behind an open door, crouching behind a bush, standing very still near a tree (dogs, like all predators, distinguish movement much better than stationary objects) or sitting on a picnic table or laying across your car's trunk, or wherever!

    To add to the dog's eagerness (or in the event that you are unable to sneak away or can't leave the dog), have someone hold the dog. They should be verbally exciting to the dog, asking, "Where did she go? What is she gets lost? Can you FIND her?" and release the dog with a FIND IT command.

    Give the dog a chance to work it out, but if he passes you more than twice, give him a "clue" by making a noise AFTER he's passed you the third time. A good clue is a distinctive but brief sound, such as clearing your throat or a short whistle that does not allow the dog to find you by using his hearing, but helps him target the general area you are in for further investigation with his nose. However the dog finds you, tons of praise is to be heaped upon his head, and of course a treat or two never hurts. Toy motivated dogs will delight in a game of fetch or tugging as a reward.

    As the dog gets more skilled at HIDE & SEEK, you can increase the difficulty of the game by throwing a blanket or tarp over yourself, not moving until the dog actually touches you, or even hiding in an area that the dog can smell you, see you (or part of you) but cannot get to you. This is useful for teaching a scratch or bark alert if desired (commonly used in drug work/search and rescue training). ALWAYS praise the dog generously for his brilliance.

    WHAT A KLUTZ This game allows you to show the dog how important his nose is to you. Dogs like to feel useful, and this particular game helps boost a dog's confidence and self importance. As you are walking, discreetly drop an object you have been carrying or held in your pocket. Continue walking for 10-15 steps, then stop as if mildly concerned, patting your pockets and looking around. Here's your chance to really put on a performance! Ask the dog, "Where is it? Can you help? Can you FIND IT?"

    Begin walking back towards the spot where you dropped the article, encouraging the dog to sniff the ground by pointing and telling him to FIND IT. As you get closer to the object, give the dog a little room so that he can find it all by himself. If he needs help, try a subtle kick of the object (after all, you are the klutz who dropped it - why not go ahead and trip over it too?) to bring it to his attention while you pretend not to notice. Once the dog indicates the article, make a huge fuss over this genius who has saved you from dropping an old glove!

    Vary the type of article you use, and be sure to include metal objects such as car keys, a crumpled soda can, even a ring or bracelet you have worn. Obviously, be careful when you drop these and be sure you can find them again! Don't use valuable items - just facsimiles. Your dog's ability and willingness to work on metal objects will be helpful in the Utility ring, but more importantly, this skill could come in very handy some day should you lose your car keys. NOTE: Metal/hard objects do not hold scent as well as fabric or leather. This does not mean that your dog can't find them, just that his reaction may be different and he will probably have to work closer to the object before locating it.

    The difficulty of WHAT A KLUTZ can be increased by: longer periods of time between the drop and the search, having the object thrown to the side or even off the path you are traveling, and multiple object drops. Especially fun are surprise set-ups where you plant an object along a path before taking the dog that way. You may point out the object to the dog with a question of "What's that?" and praise him for investigating, or walk past it and then send him back with a FIND IT command. This is a great preparation for tracking dogs who must learn to indicate on found items. A final twist for tracking prospects is the addition of objects dropped by people other than yourself. Be warned - this can be so much fun for the dog that he'll gladly show you all the neat trash dropped by other folks along the street, in the rest areas, etc.! John had been shown some unusual objects by his dogs while simply out walking.

    3-2-1-FIND IT Use a favorite toy or even just a stick that you come across in the woods. After a few moments of playing with object, hold the dog as you throw the object into grass, brush, woods thick enough to lightly disguise the object. The dog may see and "mark" the fall of the object, but as the difficulty of the game increases, this will only help him define the area he needs to search. Once the object has landed and stopped moving, count to 3 before releasing the dog to "FIND IT." You may gradually increase the time before releasing the dog, and of course, the heaviness of the cover (one good reason to avoid mowing your lawn regularly!)

    THINGS THAT GET LOST IN THE NIGHT Using the same rules as 3-2-1-Find It, this game relies on the natural cover of darkness to encourage the dog to use his nose. Instead of marking the fall with his eyes, your dog may listen carefully. Once again, this only helps the dog narrow the area he will have to search. This can be played inside (throwing the object into a dark closet, corner or room) or outside. When beginning this game, don't get too enthusiastic and throw the toy very far. The point of all these games is success, not frustration for the dog. Also, be sure YOU know where the heck it landed in case the dog needs some help.

    ONE & ONLY This is a more advanced scent game, but extremely useful to teach the dog the concept that only one object is desired from a group of similar objects. I normally start this with tennis balls (my dogs' favorites). Play with the dog for several minutes with the One & Only object you'll want the dog to find. This allows your scent (as well as lots of good dog spit) to thoroughly cover the object. Then move off to an area where you have planted several similar objects. Throw the One & Only into that area, using a 3-2-1-Find It technique. If the dog picks up an incorrect object, say nothing as you take it and put it down or pocket it, but with enthusiasm, give the FIND IT command again, leading the dog back to the general area to be searched if needed. Obviously, when the dog gets it right, reward this with a minute or two of play before repeating ONE & ONLY again. This can be combined with the more difficult levels of 3-2-1-FIND IT for really advanced discrimination by the dog.

    Once your dog has mastered these games, any formal scent discrimination exercise becomes a snap for that educated nose. Furthermore, you have learned to understand just how powerfully discriminating a dog's nose can be, and to trust that when it comes to working in a world of scent,your best bet is to follow the guy who knows what he's doing - your dog!

    Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit

  • 20 Feb 2015 9:43 AM | Anonymous
    Great resource for the inexperienced Bullmastiff Owner!

    CLICK on title or image to purchase. You will be redirected to our educational partner site DOGWISE.  Please be sure to use this link.



    Publisher: Alpha Dog Training
    1997 Booklet, 37 pages

    Item: B0630
    Ships the next business day.

    Summary: Presents a program for bringing up a puppy to a well adjusted adult, paying particular attention to controlling the natural aggression in the breed. Highly recommended for first time owners!

    Part 1 only - Part 2 is no longer available.

    Price: $9.95
  • 13 Apr 2014 10:54 PM | Deleted user
    As you may have already noticed, when your dog gets up for a good nap he usually stretches his front legs ending up in a bowing position: what you will learn here is to train your dog to "bow" at your command.

    How to do it
    Start with your dog standing on his four legs: say 'Bow' and push gently on the forward part of his back (close to the neck) while holding a hand under his rear legs. The result will be that he will lower his head and front part while leaving standing his rear part - thus "bowing".

  • 30 Mar 2014 8:30 PM | Deleted user

    Whether you’re hoping to enroll your pet in a sporting event or are just trying to teach your new puppy basic house rules, a well-executed training routine is key to meeting your goals. We talked to some of the best trainers for dog sports and got their top tips on training your puppy or dog.

    1. ​I train with food and toys, a clicker, and tons and tons of praise.

    2. We start training the minute I get them home-teaching them how to learn, to problem-solve, and you’re teaching them how to have a relationship with you.

    3. I’ll do 5 or 10 minutes, two or three times a day. As he gets older, increase the training time depending on how quickly he’s maturing and learning to concentrate. What’s important, though, is to quit before the puppy does. I want it to be fun- lots of laughing, squealing, jumping- so he wants to do it the next time.

    4. I train for quality: If we’re working on the broad jump and he does three brilliant broad jumps in a row, we’re done.

    -Petra Ford, handler whose Labrador Retriever, Tyler, won two consecutive AKC National Obedience Invitationals

    5. Keep it short, keep it upbeat, and try to always be consistent. Often novice handlers will try one method for a few weeks, don’t like it, then try another. That’s where novices run into trouble.

    6. It takes a lot of togetherness off the course to get your dog to perform well on the course. It’s all about teamwork. The better you and your dog know each other, the better you’ll perform.

    -Erin Schaefer, an agility trainer and international gold-medal handler

    7. Especially with big breeds, start training when they are puppies and you can still control them. If you wait till they’re full grown, you’ve got a mammoth problem on your hands.

    8. The first two or three weeks, the dog is learning a great deal. Then, all of a sudden, you hit a wall. It’s like dieting: You’re not going to lose weight every week after those first few weeks. You have to keep working toward your next goal.

    9. Patience is the number-one virtue. You’ll do damage, serious damage, to your training program if you lose your temper.

    10. Training doesn’t end when you leave class - it’s just beginning. In class, we’re teaching you to teach your dog. Take what you learn in class and apply it at home. You can’t train a dog in one hour a week.

    -Joanne Johnson, AKC World Cup obedience-team competitor

    11. It wasn’t until Chartay was 2 years old that her performance instinct kicked in. Dogs are like human beings. You have some children who mature faster than others. Suddenly at 21 months, Chartay turned the corner. From then on she won just about everything I put her in, no matter what event it was. So stick with it.

    12. A big reason for my dogs’ consistency is that they understand when we are at work. What tells them that is the collar they wear: For each different activity we do, they wear a different collar. My boy Hunter even has a collar for stud-dog activities! Even if we practice obedience for only 10 minutes, I change collars. A pain, yes, but consistency in training is critical if you expect your dog to be consistent when he’s working.

    13. Save the exercise the dog loves best for last, then give tons of praise - even if the rest of the session went badly. Your dog will remember how her day ended, so if you want to start the next day on a happy, positive note, end every last session of the day on a happy note. And that is not always an easy thing to do!

    -Jack Sharkey, owner-handler of Chartay, the Vizsla who was the first quintuple champion in AKC history

    Adapted from a “Dogsport 101” article that ran inAKC Family Dog

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